
Cold appetizer of tuna, lake como fish, otopus

Hot appetizers of squid, mussels, scallops, shrimps etc

Homemade pasta in light cream with seafood
..and finally, the main course of stingray fish







Saturday, Oct 15
My flight is at 8:30 pm so I decided to book a day tour to 2 other must-see sights in Joburg. Cradle of Humankind, where the oldest fossil of a humanoid was said to be found, and Soweto a famous township where you can witness what life was/is like for blacks in SA. So it was a history day.
The sight of Cradle of Humankind is northwest of the city of Joburg, less than an hour away. It’s a world heritage site and there’s excavation ongoing. Back in the late 1800’s they were mining this site for limestone which was in high demand for its building materials and also used in the processing of gold. Unfortunately they had already accidentally blasted the skeleton of the body away before they discovered the skull of Mrs. Ples. Yes they actually gave it that name. Ples actually is short for a very long scientific name. And at first Dr.Broom had guessed it was a woman. Currently they are excavating the remains of Little Foot which they believe is a small boy that fell into one of the opening of the cave 2.9 million yrs ago. Because of the fragility of the remains they are using a powerful dental drills and brushes. As a result it has taken 13 years and they are only 85% done, can you imagine? The museum at the site depicted skulls found at the site and how they must have looked back then. It’s amazing to see the full evolution of man. The tour was interesting. We went down 180 feet into the cave and saw some fantastic examples of limetones. The guide let us touch a vertebrae of an animal fossil that was embedded into a rock. This cave had a lot of small openings from the top so as a result a lot of animals and humanoids (from million yrs ago) have fallen in and died in the cave.
Our next stop was the township of Soweto (stands for southwest township). This township got started back in late 1800’s for the miners that came to Joburg when gold was discovered here. Fred showed me the “camp hostels” that are still being used today. They are just rows of brick buildings that provided a one room home for the workers at the mines. The minor would have one room as living quarters. No electricity, no water or bathroom. They looked like they should be knocked down but there are people still living in it today. Over the years after apartheid the government started erecting these simple but new homes that are subsidized. You have to pay a nominal rent and running costs. What people were surprised to find out was that many of the blacks did not take up this opportunity. Instead they preferred to stay where they were because it was costing them nothing, they didn’t want to start paying rent or utilities. As a result many of these new homes are standing empty and you still see people living in shacks. We drove by scenes where the “local butcher” set up shop in an empty dirt lot. His shop consisted of cardboards and tarps held up by wooden sticks. Nearby locals form the neighborhood were washing their clothes at an outside water tap. Many of the homes, some had 4 walls and some were shacks made of tin, does not have running water. The nicer section of the neighborhood had the “matchstick homes” which was a tiny house surrounded by walls and gate. At least they looked to be better maintained.
The township is huge, about 50 square miles and about 3 million people. In some parts you see some decent looking new houses. Fred explained that during the apartheid blacks were not allowed to buy or own a house assuming they could afford to. Once apartheid ended some people who made more decent money had saved up money over the years started to buy land and build their houses.
We drove by the house of Winnie Mandela who still lives there for part of the time. Ofcourse her house is probably the biggest and nicest in the neighborhood.
We had just enough time to do a quick stop into the Apartheid Museum. Had to admit that this was not on top of my list but Fred thought it would be good to see. I was glad we found the time. The design of the museum and the contents within was incredibly impactful. We only had an hour so Fred was nice and gave me a condensed version of the museum. I can imagine spending the whole day here.
Just watched the movie Invictus on the plane. I had heard about it, didn’t know what it was all about but wasn’t interested because it was about rugby. I remembered Louis at the lodge telling me what it was about and I should see it. So glad I saw ithe movie after I’ve been to SA, it all came together for me. All that I’ve seen and learned in the past 4 weeks helped me appreciate the movie even more. I recognized the scenery in the movie and it was great. It was also a great movie, cried through the whole thing. I had asked Fred my guide if the movie had represented the facts correctly and he said it did. He was impressed by the accents of Morgan Freeman and Matt Damon.
Fred says that it will take generations for real change to take place. The laws of apartheid might have been abolished less than 20 years ago but not enough has changed. I saw it first hand at the plant where almost 100% factory workers were black and most of office and mgmnt were whites. Even though there are efforts of diversity there are just not enough of blacks with the education and skills. The next generation will be more education which will result with better opportunities and the generation after that will be better. Already there is an emerging black middle class and upper middle class.
What a great experience it’s been. Home for a few weeks and then it’s Milan Italy. Sounds boring after S.Africa but hey, I’m not complaining.
I have decided that this place is worth a second trip. There's so much more to see and I really only got a little taste. It was a big check off my bucket list but it's worth putting it back on again! Only this time G will go with me...
Friday, Oct 14
12 game drives and it hasn’t gotten old. This morning Rex found fresh tracks of the leopard and really wanted to find him. At one point Frans our tracker got out of the jeep and went of foot to try to follow it’s tracks. I’ve had 3 great sightings of the leopard but by fellow travelers have not so I really wanted them to have the opportunity. Unfortunately it was not meant to be.
After breakfast it was time for me to depart for the airport. I got big hugs from Marilyn & Louis and Barb and Jen. I got their email addresses and promised to send them the link to my pics. The girls only had the small point and shoot cameras and Marilyn had a nice camera but she just got it and said she hasn’t really learnt how to use it. They all loved the pictures I showed them each night after our drives so was really happy when I said they could download any of my pics that they wanted.
Barb is 68 but is a ball of energy with such a zest for life. I would never have guessed that she was this age. When we hugged goodbye I told her I only hoped that I have this energy for life when I get to be her age. Marilyn and Louis will celebrated their 50th anniversary in a few months. I found them so inspiring because they look like they are still in love. Over dinner conversations we shared stories and I could see how he values family and marriage and how a man’s priority is always and forever his wife his words!). I remember our first game drive when Rex went off road to get to the lions. The bush was dense in some parts so as a result you have some small branches wacking right at you so you have to pay attention and duck out of the way at the right time. In some parts when the branches were hitting our way I saw Louis reach over to put his arms around his wife with his hands covering her head as to protect her. I thought it was incredibly sweet. So far most of the people I have met at the lodges seem to have one thing in common. An African safari had been on their bucket list for awhile so all were beyond thrilled to be here and also the experience far exceeded their expectations. I have to say I agree with them there!
Flight back to Joburg. was uneventful. I booked another night at the same guesthouse and had just enough time for some last minute shopping at the mall. I had planned to get gary a rugby shirt with the 2011 emblem on it. I saw so many when we were shopping a couple of weeks ago but could not find any today. Must have walked up and down the huge mall a few times to no avail. I’m convinced that they pulled them off the shelves when SA lost last week!
Thursday, Oct 13
Animals seen today: Silver haired mondeys, Wildebeests, Kudus, Impalas, Warthog, Waterbuck Lions. Crested Barbett (bird that looks like someone threw a whole bunch of paint on it)
Today I am alone for the morning drive. Marilyn and Louis are taking a day trip into Blyde Canyon.. I would have gone but it would mean missing both the morning and afternoon drives and I did not want to do that. Besides, can anything top the grand canyon?!!
At around 5 this morning I could hear some noises outside my room, it was still a bit dark but I did look outside my window but saw nothing. It was some stomping and some deep breathing. Yikes, I was thinking about the elephant outside my window at the last lodge! It could be a kudu or an elephant or a leopard. I wasn’t going outside to check! Went back to bed but I was hearing something outside. Got ready for the morning drive and went outside to see a few monkeys jumping around the tree outside my room! I had my camera and was frantically trying to get pictures because these suckers never seem to stay still for a picture. But as I walked to the main lodge I can see that we are suddenly surrounded by at least 2 dozen monkeys. They are small, silver haired with a small black face, long tailed and so so so cute. I heard that they can be a nuisance to some lodges in the area. The sister lodge to this one has a problem with monkeys stealing food from the guests’ table if they are sitting out on the deck. Fortunately we don’t have this problem at this lodge, this was the first time I saw them here. So happy I got some great pics of them. One was just hanging out on a small tree eating the leaves, he let me get really close to him, about 2-3 feet, before running away.
Off for the morning drive. I love this time of the morning. The light is fantastic for pictures, the animals are out and finding food and you can feel the bush coming alive with activity. Rex told me that the animals like to eat the grass in the morning because the grass is more moist from the morning dew. One the day heats up the grass dries up so the animals eat their fill first thing in the morning.
We stopped by the lion den to see the baby cubs again. The whole family was there, mom, dad, 3 brothers and the 2 babies. We stopped the jeep 6 feet next to them and non was disturbed by that. Rex had turned off the engine as it was the norm if we stop to see an animal. When he turned on the engine it would start. He tried several times without luck. As it happed there was another jeep that was there before us and was able to make it was to us for a push. Rex said the battery must have been low and the jeep was at an angle so that the battery didn’t quite work. As the other jeep make it’s way towards us I was thinking that someone was going to get out to jump start the battery. Then I was thinking that the rule is that you never leave your jeep because the animals don’t attack because they think of the jeep as one big animal. If you stand up or get out of the car then you are fair game. OMG, I had a few minutes of panic. Turns out the other jeep came nose to nose with us and gave us a 1 or 2 pushes and the engine started again. While all this commotion was going on I never took my eyes off the papa lion which actually stood up when the other jeep got to us. I had my escape route all worked out in that brief moment which was hide under the seat, yes, there was just enough room for me there. Rex had a bit more meat on his body so hopefully the lion will go for him first! It was fine, the jeep started up and we were out of there.
During our tea break this morning, Rex explained that this nature reserve is the most western part of kruger and it was a private area in the past where there has been hunting. Now that it’s a nature reserve hunting is banned but it will take a little time for the animals to learn to trust it and come back. We are seeing animals but I can tell it’s not as plentiful as in Timbavati to the east.
I was also happy to learn that the snakes are not out yet. It will take a few more rain and the weather to get warmer before they come out. The common poisonous snake here is the black mamba. This snake can bite you multiple times and still deliver poison with each bite. They are extremely poisonous and you have about 30 minutes to get to the hospital before you are dead. OMG I am SO glad I came at this time before they are active. The only good thing I give up is seeing the green of the bush, the trees here are mostly bare, but WHO CARES! The landscape is still pretty to me.
Just had a nice breakfast on the deck, updated the blog and now it’s time to take a nap on the “watchtower” next to the waterhole. Hopefully I’ll be awakened by some animals coming by to drink. So happy that the mosquitos are not out yet. We eat in peace in the morning and at night. I haven’t had to apply my insect repellent. The afternoon is warm but not hot and there’s always a breeze blowing. I don’t want to leave! Only 2 more game drives before I head back to civilization….
It's been a little frustrating not having wifi or phone signal. So weird but I get incoming emails on my blackberry but I cannot send outgoing messages! I could buy wifi for 20 bucks a day so I held off until today to load all my blog entries at once. Besides, I didn't want to worry Gary by being incommunicado for multiple days.
Before lunch we had more guests arrive. This time it's mother and daughter from Michigan. The mom Barb is 68 and is beyond excited at being in S.Africa. Their first 2 nights was at the river lodge. I asked them what they have not seen and they said hippos, rhinos and leopard. I told them to put in an order with Rex and he will see to it, and so she did, and so Rex made it happen. When we found the 2 white rhinos Barb was practically hyperventilating, she was so excited. I wondered if I was like this when I first go here! She was so exciting at seeing anything that moved, it was funny. At this point I just sit back and enjoy the animals and not so worried about taking so many pictures. As if 200+ wasn't enough! Had to admit I ended up taking more pics of the hippos, I didn't think I had this particular angle of the 2 rhinos together so what the heck. We got down to Olephant River and the hippos were still where we left then! I still managed to take more pictures of them, loved the one with his mouth wide open for a yawn! I also loved the sunset on the river! Saw a Bush Baby but it was dark and I couldn't get a picture.
Marilyn and Lewis rejoined the group for dinner. We had fun joking around. Before dinner Lawrence the owner took us down to their special wine cellar and opened up a bottle of local red wine to share. The cellar was incredible. One side of the wall was a natural rock face, part of which was over 3 million years old. It's the lowest level of earth crust that can only be found in Africa and Canada. The table was made of an iron tree that was 500 years old.
I had internet for 24 hours so I brought my mac out for everyone to send emails back home. They made me send them the picture of the hippo yawning, it gave them a good laugh. They also loved my pictures so I promised to send them the link to my picture gallery where they can download whatever they wanted. Marilyn had a nice camera like mine but she just got it and is not too used to it. Barb and Jen only had the small point-and-shoot cameras. It boggles my mine when I see the tourists on our game drives with these small cameras. What were thinking? If I was going on a safari in Africa I would have invested in a good camera!
After dinner we took our drinks and hung out on the deck by the waterhole. There was a little frog that hung out on the leather couch. We were laughing at Barb taking pics of Jen trying to kiss the frog (as in prince). It was so funny, Jen said she wanted to make it her new picture on facebook.
It's been a fun day. So sad that it's my last night in the bush! One more morning game drive tomorrow and then I'm off to the airport!