It's pea soup out there!

Hnkl parking lot
Thursday Nov 17

What a change in weather! Since we've arrived in Milan yesterday the weather has been strange. In the morning and evening the fog rolls in thick. It's like I was in san fran! As a result it feels cold and damp. At lunchtime however, it's nice and sunny. After lunch in the cantine paolo and luciano invited us for a stroll outside. Actually we walked across the street to the mall to have a cup of expresso. I have been temporary converted to a coffee drinker while here. I know for a fact that I will not be drinking the american coffee when back in the states. Besides, the whole coffee break is a social thing so it's fun. Luciano was proud to show us around the mall. It's 2 story and relatively small but I didn't want to tell them the malls in the states are at least twice as big. This concept of a shopping mall is relatively new to them.
It's crunch time with our report. I'm staying up tonight until my part is done, taking a mental break with this blog. We gave ourselves a goal to be done with the report by tomorrow night so we can all enjoy the weekend. Federico's girlfriend is flying in for the weekend so he's very motivated to be done. I'm super motivated because I plan to take a day trip to verona on saturday and check out milan on sunday. Looking forward to getting some sleep next week....

Homemade tiramisu, yum!

Simone cutting into his tiramisu
Wed, Nov 16

One day last week I finally said, screw it I'll go on a diet in January. Now I am going to fully enjoy all the good food here. This means partaking in the tray of fresh croissants from a local bakery - they put this in our meeting room every morning. Before coming here I wondered if I would get sick of eating italian food for 3 weeks. The answer would be yes if I went to an italian restaurant back home where they would typically have dishes like lasagna, spaghetti, linguini etc. The food in northern italy is very different and every region has their own specialties. There are so many variations that unless you are going to the same restaurant for 3 wks straight you will have more than enough variety. The only commonality is that a menu will always be split in 3 courses, the antipasto, primi (typically pasta or risotto) and then secondi (main course). Last night we discovered a small long alleyway behind our hotel (based on advice from alfredo) and saw that there was at least half a dozen of small restaurant. We randomly picked one and it turned out to be very local. No english in their menu! We ordered risotto with ragout of mushroom, liver and kidney and steaks that are grilled on stone. The owner warned us that they do not put anything on the steak so you can add salt to it if you want. Ofcourse federico was in heaven because this is how they cook meat in argentina (with no seasonings or sauces). The result is that you just taste the nice meat. It was the best steak ever!

In the first week one of the colleague, simone, asked me what I thought of the food in the plant cantine and I told him it was excellent. However, the plant in france was the best. I guess he told the chef this as a challenge so he has since cooked some special dishes for us. Our lunch is also in multiple courses and I love them all. Whenever the cook sees indecision on my face because I wanted all the choices he offers to give me a little of this and a little of that so I can try. Yesterday we had a local specialty called cassola which is a dish of shredded cabbage and pork skin and pork ribs. The meat is so tender because they cook this dish for many hours. It was so delicious I made sure to give compliments to the chef. I think he got a kick out of that. I also love the minestrone soup here, so different from what I know. I asked salvatore for a recipe that his wife makes and he asked me which kind. There's more than one kind? He said there are dozens of variations so he promised to give me a few of his fav recipes. Can't wait to make it at home. I never order this type of soup in restaurants at home but I have been eating it here everyday!

Today Simone brought in some homemade tiramisu. OMG, so different from any I've had. So guess what, he's going to send me the recipe, lol! Alfredo told me the legend of this dessert which originated from venice. Supposedly an important figure 200 yrs ago who had mistresses in venice told the local baker that he wanted a dessert that will give him some "extra energy" but he was in a hurry. The result was the tiramisu which is quick and easy to make and sweet. Not sure if any of this was true but fun to hear!

I love our lunches together. Usually alfredo and salvatore join us but sometimes others as well. We talk about anything but the audit so it's a nice way to get to know the local culture and people. One funny conversation was my story that involved parents of friends who bought property in hawaii years ago and are now retired there. Immediately salvatore says that is not possible here because they would never think to move far from family. This is coming from a guy that built a big house so his mother and sister could also live there! This is a little extreme but it is true that the italians have a very strong sense of family.

Weekend in Florence!

Train station in Milan

Colorful streetlights of Florence

Typical narrow cobblestone streets

Many statues throughout...

My cute hotel room in Florence

Front of my hotel

Night of opera at San Marco church

Pont del Vecchio bridge at night

Plazzo del Vecchio & Uffizi Museum

Florence cathedral in the background

Michaelangelo David

One of many street musicians

Florence cathedral made of tuscan marble

San Croce church - houses tombs of Michaelanglo, Galileo...

Sat & Sun, Nov 12-13

This is by far my most favorite city in italy! It’s the perfect combo of art, architecture and shopping. Best of all it the perfect size so that you can explore it by foot, it’s lots and lots of walking.

After much planning thanks to my Italian colleagues I got on the fast train to Florence without any problems. It’s about 2 ½ hr ride that took me right into the center of the city. I got to Florence at 11am Saturday and as luck had it, there was a free walking tour that started from the train station at 11! It was a great way for me to get my bearing and some background of the city. The tour ended at 12:30 and I then had to immediately make my way to the Uffizi museum where I made online reservations at 1pm. In the summer the lines to get into this famous museum could be 3-5 hours! I got in right away and spent 2 hours checking out some great renaissance masterpieces. So hard to believe these paintings dates back in the 15^th century. My fav painting was Boticelli’s Birth of Venus. My hotel is so cool. I didn’t realize it but it was an old convent built in 1536! Then when church property was repossessed in the second half of the 16^th century it was converted into an inn. The hotel sits on an old square so it’s very peaceful. It was great when I got into my room and opened my window to views of the red rooftops. I could see the dome of San Lorenzo cathedral church nearby.

I booked tickets to an opera (Carmen) in an old English church that night. Here in Florence anything built after the 15^th century is considered modern, lol! We were literally in a church with pews and everything! They put in chairs for about 150 chairs and the 4 person opera was done right in front of the altar. The singers were professional level and the sound was incredible. Funny but since we weren’t in a real theatre there wasn’t an overhead marquee to translate the opera so in between the 4 acts there was a host who explained each scene to us. It was very different and fun. I got tix in the 2^nd row so it was up close and personal with the singers.

I was walking back to my hotel was walking past the plaza del vecchio and could hear some beautiful live music. It lured me closer. I have read that in this city you can find some street performers that have professional level and this was one of those situations. The guy was playing acoustic guitar and must have had a bose sound system hooked to his guitar. His music reverberated throughout the square and it was so beautiful. There were long benches that were extensions of a monument so it was a perfect place to sit and listen. Many passersby had the same idea. I texted Gary wishing he was there because he would have enjoyed it. It was 11 at night but there were still lots of people walking around.

I guess the late work nights the week before caught up with me because I slept right through breakfast and didn’t wake up until 10:30. My train leaves Florence at 6pm so it was enough time to visit a couple more sights and do a little shopping. I made sure to fit in the Accademia museum which housed Michaelangelo’s statue of David – no intention to walked around for 2 hours, only to see the famous statue. When buying the ticket I asked if they had a map of the place so I can get right to David and she just said no. I realized the reason why when walking through the door you can see it big as life in the distance at the end of the corridor. Didn’t know what to expect but it was awesome to see it on approach. As with other people it was nice to sit and take the time to view the sculpture from all angles. It really was an incredible feat. Michaelangelo did manage to capture all the features of the human body. As the story goes, the artist had gotten permission to start work on this sculpture from an abandoned piece of marble that was laying around in the churchyard of san Lorenzo church. It took him 2 yrs to do it and finished it in 1504. I could hear the museum worker yelling out “no pictures!” every once in awhile so I quietly walked out of her view and zoomed in with my camera and took some pics! I sent Gary a picture that night and he agreed that the details looked pretty incredible. It’s a unique experience to see it up close and personal.

What can I say about the shopping?! Every other store in the whole city is either a shop selling purses or shoes! And it’s all leather! I wanted to buy everything but had to force myself to not do it. Not for the first time I wish it got colder in phx so I could wear these great boots. And the purses were so beautiful! I wanted to buy them all! I didn’t want to carry back too many things on the train I had to limit myself to a couple of leather belts and a wallet. My splurge for the weekend was a patent leather purse handcrafted in Florence. I will have to see how the shopping goes in Milan next weekend, oh boy. Wish I had more shopping time in Florence, after all, this is the birthplace of prada, ferragamo etc.

Lovely Como

Lake Como on a cloudy day


Full moon on Lake Como



"Downtown" Como in the morning
Friday Nov 11
The sun finally came out on Wednesday! The landscape here is so beautiful with the lake and mountains and the colors of autumn of the trees and the crisp cool air. It's in the 60's during the day so it's perfect for me. My italian colleagues are helping me plan a weekend in florence. Booked train tickets and hotel. Federico is going home to germany for the weekend and martin is staying in como to rest. Rest?! I can rest when I get home, meanwhile there's the whole of italy to explore! I didn't want to miss the opportunity to travel around italy while I can so I am striking out on my own. Simone is helping me get tickets for one of the museum in florence since it's the most popular and you can wait in line for hours. I am not a big fan of museums but would not pass on the chance to see the works of leonardo da vinci, michaelangelo, titian, raphael, rembrandt, boticello, etc. They say that in florence you will see a renaissance masterpiece every 6 steps, can't wait to explore!
Yesterday simone got ambitious for me by trying to plan a quick side trip to pisa (as in the leaning tower of pisa) while I was in florence. As it was, I am in florence for only 2 days! He showed me the train schedule and insisted that I could rush through florence on saturday and then take a train and spend 3+ hours in pisa before heading back to florence to catch my train to como. I told him thanks but I didn't want to rush through florence like that and wanted some strolling time for photos. Besides, I don't know the italian railway system and didn't know how easy it was to use.That and I didn't speak the local language. Already they planned my next weekend while we are in milan. Alfredo and simone convinced me that I can take a quick train to verona (as in romeo and juliet) for a day trip next weekend. So excited. I'm staying up past midnight during the week to get the work done and to ensure I have the weekend free. It's my last audit so I have to make it count!

OMG, wish I will need my fat pants soon

Cold appetizer of tuna, lake como fish, otopus


Hot appetizers of squid, mussels, scallops, shrimps etc


Homemade pasta in light cream with seafood

..and finally, the main course of stingray fish

Chocolate mousse with fried carrots on top

Thurs, Nov 10

Last night our italian colleagues took us out to a local restaurant near the plant in lomazzo. When the waiter handed out menus to the group I looked to Alfredo who took us out the night before and asked him to order for us. So ofcourse he made a show to throw down his menu and say yes, menus are for tourists. So, a lot of italian ensued with the restaurant manager and all was taken care of. The night was endless with dish after dish. First comes the aperitif of campari with oj and sec along with a dish each of warm hordeurves to enjoy with our drink, then the wine, then the cold appetizers, then the hot appetizers, then the pasta as the primi dish, then the fish as the secondi, then dessert, then coffee and their homemade cookies and chocolates. I remembered when they brought out the cold appetizers I was confused because I thought the hordeurves were the appetizers. That's when salvatore explained that the hordeurves were for the aperitifs. THEN when the hot appetizers came out I was confused because I thought we already had our appetizers so salvatore explained that we had the cold appetizers and now this is the hot appetizers. After that I just shut up and just eat whatever they bring me. Have to admit that by the time they brought the stingray which was a specialty of the restaurant and which I have never tried, I was too full to enjoy it. Didn't think I had room for dessert but had to try the fantastic mouse. It was small but so rich and yummy, much thicker than what I know of mousse. Fried carrots sounded weird but it was really good. Crispy and with a hint of salt so a good combination with the sweetness of the chocolate. I loved our meal because they were mostly dishes I wouldn't have known to order. The cuisine of northern italy is very different from the typical italian dishes that I find in the states. So far I have not had any spaghetti or lasagna! I learned that ragu sauce originated in naples in south italy, it means sauce simmered over a long period of time. Wish I had time to go to bologna since spaghetti bolognese is one of my favorite dish back home.

Martin asked our Italian colleagues what I thought might have been an offending question: who’s more cultured, Italians or French? I was surprised to hear Antonio immediately say that italy might have culture but Italians are not cultured. People here do not appreciate arts or theatre. Much of the treasures in italy were discovered by French or germans. He said if you go into the many churches in these villages and town there could be pictures hung on the walls that are centuries old and easy to steal. I couldn't believe the way they were putting down their own people and the lack of appreciation of art and music and history.

When I first heard alfredo say that he does not agree that women should be in the military or work in the factory and that this equality thing was silly. He didn’t think women should do any jobs that involves physical no matter if they want to or not. I didn’t know how to respond to that and waited him out before arguing back. I was the only female in the group so wondered if I should defend myself and my gender. He said he almost got lynched when working in Russia and did not want to hire women workers. Apparently in russia the women are working in the factories while the men are busy drinking vodka. I thought alfredo was exaggerting but antonio chimed in that women is a big part of the workforce in russia and without them there would be no russia. Anyway, alfredo was very vocal about women doing anything kind of physical jobs. The others were also nodding their heads! It then dawned on me to ask salvatore sitting next to me if this machismo attitude was because Italian men feel protective towards their women and he said that’s exactly it. How can you get mad at that logic?!

Funny to hear alfredo talk about younger generations and how they are not well read and too reliant on TV, he is afraid of the future because of how today's youth is too materialistic. He is fearful that future generations will revert back to the old days of the rich few will be the ones leading the world and the middle class will disappear.

It was interesting conversation, it was a regular exchange of experiences. Our italian colleagues were curious about things happening in our parts of the world: martin in china, federico in argentina and me in the united states and ofcourse we loved to learn about italian culture. Alfredo loves watching american futbol, it's fast and noisy he said. We learned from martin that soccer is the most popular sport in china. Federico talked about the relationship of argentina with their neighboring countries. Brazil is like a close cousin, Chile is just a neighbor and Uruguay is like another province of argentina. I told them about the baseball stadium in phx that is open air but is airconditioned for the summer games (yes, hot air rises while cold air is depressed). We learned that salvatore demonstrated the essence of the italian value of family when he showed us pics of the house that he built so that it's 3 homes in 1 to accomodate his family, his parents and his sister's family. Alfredo was curious about what americans think about europeans and I hated to admit that the average american was not very aware on what's happening outside of the US, unless it's something major that would appear on the national news. Most don't watch CNN on a regular basis but instead stuck more to local news and what's happening in their town or state. Our country is quite big and isolated from the rest of the world. Alfredo said that it's the opposite here and that europeans are very interested in what's happening in the US. They like our current president. I said I like the current only because he was better than the last!

Best meal EVER!

The chef presenting to us the catch of the day!


Our own plate of hot appetizers

Primi plate of seafood pasta

Preparing our plate with yummy grilled fish

Tuesday, Nov 8

This is why I love this job so much. If I came here as a tourist the following experience would not have happened…..last night the head of the plant took us out for what he called “a simple Italian meal”. After work we followed him to the restaurant in the Como area. I was thinking somewhere near our hotel but we ended up going up up up the mountain side. Outside the restaurant Alfredo warned us that this is not a fancy restaurant but it’s where he takes his family or friends for nice meal. OK, I then knew for sure it was going to be great. First he asked us if we like fish and the answer was yes and that was the only input he needed from us. Then there was a lot of Italian going back and forth with the owner and waiter and the cook. We didn’t even get menus, all was taken care of for us. Then the chef brought out a platter containing 3 huge fresh fish (raw) that he got that afternoon, again a lot of Italian back and forth to discuss the best dish to prepare. Apparently one fish is best in a soup and another was best grilled, etc. Out comes the wine and bread, then a plate of mixed appetizer, OMG so delicious. I loved the paper thin slices of grilled octopus and the baked potato casserole. Then we get the primi which was linguini with a wonderful tomato sauce with shrimp and squid. Then they carted out this huge grilled fish on a trolley and prepared our plates in front of us. The waiter basically deboned the fish and place a portion on our plate and adding paper thin slices of grilled zucchini, eggplants and potatoes. I ate everything! Not surprisingly after the main course we were too full for dessert so had to regretfully say no when asked about it. But ofcourse there was an idea for something light. I heard sorbet and I heard limone so it was enough for me to say OK! What we got was a small champagne glass of ice cold of something with the consistency of melted ice cream and flavor of fresh lemon. It was so light and so good, especially when the chef brought out some lemon meringue cookies that he made that was as light as air. During our wonderful meal Alfredo told us about his 14 yrs expat experience of working for hkl in Russia. I learned so much about the culture and politics of Russia. The russians will put up with a terrible polictical leader because they value stability above all else. We spent 2 and a half hours talking about this topic, it was so fascinating to hear first hand account. It was a lovely evening even we had to practically roll out of the restaurant. I tried to take pictures of the food with the blackberry (such a tourist) and so it's not so clear.

First day of work at the plant

View of Lake Como from my hotel balcony

Nov 7
On Monday we had the opening meeting to kick off the audit. Everyone was sooo nice. I couldn’t keep the names straight since there were about 22 people in the room. I was the only female but hey, I am NOT complaining! All speak English even though it’s broken English. With their charming accents I would forgive them anything, lol! The plant is 80 years old and quite big, it will take me more that a week to be able to find my way around. Our working space is a nice conference room on the 4th floor with awesome views of the Swiss and Italian alps. Every morning when we get to the office there is a platter of croissants and sweets, local fruits, water and even a coffee machine. Lunch at the plant cantine is great. Even here they follow the Italian tradition of a multicourse meal. You typically have a primi (first) choice of soup (best ministone soup ever!) or pastas(always 2 kinds) and then secondi (second) choices of fish or meats with veggies or salads. THEN you have some separate portions of meats like thinly sliced salami or prosciuto ham or cheeses or fruits. OMG! I’ve already gained 10 lbs just writing about it! They do not have concept of to-go food, meaning eating lunch at your desk. There is no rush to eat your meal. Italians will take an hour to eat what American can do in 10 minutes. After lunch we have a coffee together. The coffee is so good here that I make the exception to drink it. It’s strong here so you only need a 1-2 oz shot. Yes, they do laugh that the American version which is a big mug of watery crap. I enjoy so much the lunch conversation with our Italian colleagues. Some like to talk to me about their traveling experience in the US. Simone told me about his 8 day trip by car from LA to Phx, grand canyon, monument valley, bryce canyon, las vegas, sanfranciso and Chicago. I didn’t understand how the hell he did that! Well, one reason was that he spent literally one night in Phx and got the heck out of there because it was in the summer and 1000 degrees! He was also the first person I met that took more pictures than me! I spent 4 wks in Africa and took 800 pics and edited it down to 200 before I can show it to friends, Simone spent 8 days in the US and took 1500 pictures and doesn’t delete anything, lol!

It has been cloudy and rainy in the past few days but not so bad. On CNN I saw them talking about record rain in northern italy (which is where I am) and flooding. It looks really bad on the news but it’s not where we are. The lake level is a little high but that’s about it. The rain is just a drizzle from time to time. Still, can't wait for the sun to come out!